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In keeping with the theme of skeletonized watches, this weeks feature is the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Skeleton Perpetual Calendar.
The platinum or 18k rose gold (my personal fave,) the case measures a respectable 39mm and houses a VC movement calibre 1120 QPSQ. It is a self-winding mechanical, stamped with the Geneva hallmark, has 36 jewels, a balance beating at 19,800 beats per hour, (lower beats, means a slower arc and more chances to watch the escapement,) and a power reserve of 40 hours.
Please visit Timezone to read Jorge Merino's post on this watch and to see more pics:
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2704443&rid=0
Jaeger LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual SQ
As much as I've enjoyed JLC's work over the years, I have to say that this limited edition model--although daring in execution--just misses the mark with regards to a skeletonized movement.
For an example of what JLC can accomplish with the art of skeletonizing, we just have to look at the Reverso in white gold. Not only beautiful in case and dial design, but the gold plates and bridges, set off by the blued screws presents a masterpiece in wrist art.
Housed in the familar Master series case made of 950 platinum, the styling is magnificent, if not a little large at 41.5mm. Having saphire crystals back and front, gives the wearer to oportunity to view the skeleton movement. The matt grey alligator strap sports a white gold deployment clasp.
The watch tells the wearer the hours, minutes, date, day, month, year, moon phases, power reserve, day/night indicator and has a red security zone, although it's function I have no idea.
The movement is a JLC (natch) manually-wound calibre 876SQ, built and decorated by hand, has a balance with a 28,800 vibration per hour beat, an eight day power reserve powered by two barrels, 260 parts, 37 jewels and is a mere 6.60 mm thick.
The watch will be limited to 100 peices to be made over several years to give JLC's watchmakers the time needed to build them and recover from the hysterical blindness this watch will no doubt cause. And then fortunately and compassionately, the watch will put to rest. Unless it gets buried in the Pet Cemetary.
Please visit Timezone and read Mike Dishers post about the Master Eight Days Perpetual SQ:
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2702719&rid=0
Using Timezone as a launching pad for my critiques, I'm happy to present what I plan to have on my wrist, what I would love to have on my wrist and what I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole.
First off, from Jaeger-LeCoultre, a lovely and brilliant new chrono named the Duometre a Chronographe:
Featuring a hand decorated and built mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380 movement, this chrono displays a power reserve for the time function, as well as for the chronograph function, both displaying the power in each of the two barrels. Also, the chronograph function features a minute-unit indicator, so you don't have to guess whether the chrono reads 32 minutes, or 33 minutes; it's in there!
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2702490&rid=0
Next up, one that's going on the wish list, the Glashutte original "Sixties". A lovely self-winding model using the wonderful GO 39 movement, cased inside steel and precious metal cases and featuring a no-nonsense dial, with alternating Arabic and index hour markers, a domed sapphire crystal, (I'm not too hot for this feature, but I don't hate it either) and an extra-plat case.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2590469&rid=0
From Vianny Halter is a tower clock for your wrist. Designed and crafted in 1788 by Antide Janvier, that clock and this particular watch presents the solar time and lunar cycle in a housing that won't crush you like your name was Wicked Witch of the East. Oh! What a world, what a world! The clock may be sitting in the Musée du Temps in Besançon, but this watch can be sitting on your wrist courtesy of Manufacture Janvier (well...not "courtesy", you have to pay for it.)
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2631413&rid=0
From F.P. Journe, comes the Octa Moonphase and Power Reserve. That pretty much sums it all up, natch. Hey, it's from Journe, what else you need to know? What? You writin' a book? Fine. The movement is the Octa 1300-3, with a 120 hour power reserve (woof!) and a new rotor that winds in one direction. Using a ball bearing system, ceramic balls allow the rotor to move in one direction and block it in the other. Apparently, when the wearer is sitting on his lazy...er, chair, the rotor moves back to it's original position and apparently, "...every infinitesimal movement is maximally exploited for an optimized winding of the watch." Now don't you feel useless? Your watch works harder than you do, you slob.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2641814&rid=0
From another independent maker, the Sea-Gull Tourbillon. Made by a Chinese maker, the case is rose gold, with a hand wind tourbillon movement displaying the time, sub seconds via a dagger on the tourb cage, power reserve, moon phase, date and 24 hour indication. Wow! Even the Asian watches work harder than us shiftless North Americans! Lazy Timex.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2605934&rid=0
Now, Rolex. I won't go into too much detail, except to say that much like Cadillac, Rolex hasn't made a good-looking product since 1996. However, the new Air-Kings with COSC and heavier cases look sharp. I'll let James Dowling tell you about the Yacht-Master II.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2682742&rid=0
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2687498&rid=0
From the Omega Museum Collection, we have a rebuild of the famous 1932 divers watch. This case-in-a-case watch was conceived as an elegant designer watch, that was robust enough to withstand the harsh reality of moisture. It flopped. Oh, it worked perfectly, but no one wanted it. Which had the JLC Reverso talking trash about it at all the cool parties. Snap! However, aside from being a snappy little number, it has been updated with modern materials and can be yours. The inner case of rose gold, slides inside the outer case of white gold, living in moisture free sin upon the wearer's wrist. The only unfortunate issue is, Omega decided to enlarge the watch to 33.05 mm wide by 50.50 mm long. I guess size does matter.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2683044&rid=0
Also from Omega, yet another limited series Speedmaster Pro, this time limited to 57 pieces in precious metal and featuring a hand wind Co-Axial movement. A steel version will also be available in 1957 pieces in a handsome wood box, with ugly dial doodads. But it's still going on my wish list. Ugly watches need love too.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2683000&rid=0
And now, the one I'll be shopping for, the Longines Legend Diver. It's a re-issue of a 1960 diving watch and damned pretty. With a self-winding Longines caliber L633--ETA 2824-2--25 jewels, a 28,800 beat, a power reserve of 38 hours all inside a 42mm steel case. Although about 4mm bigger than I like my watch to be, (I'm not a size queen,) it's beauty outweighs it's size.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2687037&rid=0
And lastly, from the bottom of whatever barrel would have them, Paris Hilton has made a punitive foray into watch design. "Paris Hilton timepieces are creative designs with sensual cases and colorful straps." In other words, tarted up timepieces. Much like their "designer", they'll be cheap and easily had for $85-$200 by anyone with more cash than taste. Hey, I'll cut the
lady some slack. She hasn't done anything that all of us haven't done too. The only diff is we don't have video evidence of our debauchery. Most of us don't. Ok, I do. But I didn't know cameras could tape in the dark. Night vision, what the hell is that? What is this, "Mission Impossible"? Mission impossible getting that damn tape back. No copies? Yeah, right. I won't fall for that one a third time.
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2658757&rid=0
BASEL, BASEL, BASEL, BASEL--BASEL TIME!
As we all are well aware, the 90th annual Baselworld fair and watch exposition is taking place in--oddly enough--Basel, Switzerland between April 12 and April 19, 2007.
From 1917 until 1973 (the year and month yours truly was brought forth screaming and wailing from the warm confines on my mother's womb at the tender age of ten,) the fair was known as MUBA, or Schweizer Mustermesse Basel where a special section for watches and jewelry was presented.
In 1973, the fair was renamed EUSM, Europäische Uhren- und Schmuckmesse, the European Jewelry and Watch Show. It wasn't until 1983, that the now familiar Basel was born and Herein began ARRIVING exhibitors from around the world. And in 2003, an icon was established in Baselworld. Sorta like Disney World, minus the rats.
Basel, Switzerland, the place annually besieged by wide eyed seekers of the correct time is itself an lovely little city. From Wikipedia:
"Located in north-west Switzerland on the river Rhine, Basel functions as a major industrial center for the chemical and pharmaceutical industry. The city borders both Germany and France. The Basel region, culturally extending into German Baden and French Alsace, reflects the heritage of its three states in the modern Latin name: "Regio TriRhena". It has the oldest university of the Swiss Confederation (1460)."
With a population of 172,120 and an area of only about 22 kilometers, this city has managed to become the nexus of watch collecting, outside of Geneva. It is where two different ideals, watchmaking and watch collecting, merge to form a workable understanding that not only saved the Swiss watch manufacturing dynasty in the 1980's, but has managed to sustain it throughout the years and no doubt well into a future that you, not I will ever live to see.
Please feel free to peruse these links and see what the world of watchmaking has to offer. I will be posting some comments of the various presentations invariably; whatever catches my eye, or makes me question the existence of a creator, whether man or god.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basel#People_from_Basel
http://www.baselworld.com/go/id/ss/lang/eng/
http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=threadt&frm_id=85
