Cleaning & Oiling A Bulova 10BC Movement

One of my favorite watches took a nasty spill and the upper pivot on the balance staff broke.

After acquiring another 10BC movement from Larry Foord, I proceeded with a pretty standard cleaning and oiling.

I was pleased to see that the replacement movement was a 17 jewel 10BC, so I swapped it for my 7 jewel 10BC.

The new movement was missing the barrel ratchet wheel, the hour wheel, the canon pinion and the upper pivot on the pallet arbor was broken, but the balance and hairspring were perfect.

After disassembling and hand cleaning the new movement, I separated the parts.

After the cleaning process, I used wooden skewers to clean out the jewel holes, being careful not to crack one. I also removed the cap jewel for the pallet arbor lower pivot and cleaned that.

Here are pics of the pillar plate:

And the dial side:

To avoid smudges I did a preliminary wiping of the bridges and plate with Rodico. A more though cleaning would happen after the movement is assembled.

Here we see the damaged pallet fork and arbor from the replacement movement. The missing pivot is quite obvious, even on so small a part.

Here is the first step in assembly; the pallet arbor and fork (PA&F) are set in place and the PA&F bridge is carefully set onto the upper pivot.

Here, all the pics are from the 7 jewel movement. As I got going on assembling the 17 jewel movement, I became careless and didn't take any pictures. So the 7 jewel will have to sit in for the 17 jewel movement. The layout is identical, however.

Next, the escape wheel is put in place.

Then, the fourth wheel--the gear which moves the sub-second hand.

Next, the third wheel--the gear which moves the minutes hand.

And lastly, the second wheel, or center wheel--the gear which moves the hour hand.

Here the bridge has been replaced. On a personal note, I've noticed it's far easier to place the bridges down on high jeweled watches. These seven jewel movements are tough, because there isn't a colour contrast between the pivots and holes, like a jewel will give you.

Here the barrel is placed in position.

And here the barrel bridge in put in place.

Here, the click spring gave me some grief on the 17 jewel movement. The click had jumped the spring, so I had to remove the click, so as to get the spring back behind the stud located on the underside of the click. Thirty minutes later, I was victorious and the click spring was my defeated enemy!

To crush your click springs, see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentation of the winding clicks!

Lastly, the balance goes into place.



This video may be downloaded for free from Rapidshare

http://rapidshare.com/files/34464677/Mov00694.mpg

Here is a video of the 17 jewel movement ticking along nicely.




This video may be downloaded for free from Rapidshare

http://rapidshare.com/files/34464322/Mov00679.mpg

Chicago School Of Watchmaking Lesson 2

Master Watchmaking
A Modern, Complete, Practical Course
By Thomas B. Sweazey and Byron G. Sweazey.

The Chicago School of Watchmaking was founded in 1908 by Thomas b. Sweazey.

LESSON 2: CROWNS, STEMS, SLEEVES AND BOWS

There are two types of part assortments available: bulk assortments which are not separated. And pre-sorted assortments, which cost more, but are easier to use.

In American watches there are three types of setting arrangements:

The first is the pendant set which uses s stem and sleeve and sits inside the watchcase and is sometimes called a Negative Setting.

The second type of setting is called a Swiss setting and the stem is a part of the movement and is sometimes called a Positive Setting.

The third type of setting is called a lever set and it uses a set lever operated by the finger nail and is mostly used in railroad watches.

Section 49:
A sleeve is screwed inside the watchcase pendant. The top of the sleeve is threaded, as is the upper part of the pendant inside. The sleeve with the stem inside is screwed into the watchcase pendant with a sleeve wrench. The bottom of the sleeve is sectioned like four fingers, which grip the bottom of the stem in two places; the bottom notch for winding and the top notch for setting. The crown is screwed onto the top of the stem, which is threaded.

Section 42:
When removing a movement from a case which has full head screws, you need only remove the lower screw, loosen the top screw slightly, pull up the crown into the setting position and the movement will come out of the case.

Section 43:
To remove the crown from the stem, after the movement has been removed from the case, hold the winding square with a pair of flat nose pliers and turn the crown to the left with your right hand.

Section 44:
Sleeve wrenches have prongs with either two, or four lugs on the ends of the prongs. The wrench is placed inside the pendant of the watchcase to unscrew the sleeve. On some watches, the sleeve is old and cannot be removed with the sleeve wrench. In this case, remove the stem from the sleeve and use a square file, or broach to unscrew the sleeve from the pendant. Adjustments are done to the sleeve inside the pendant, with the stem still inside the sleeve.

Section 45:
Using the sleeve wrench, place the correct size prong inside the pendant and turn the wrench to the left and continue doing so until the sleeve is free of the pendant and case. the, remove the stem through the bottom of the sleeve.

Section 47:
When selecting a new sleeve, make sure the diameter of the threaded top is correct, that the threads are the correct pitch and that the length is correct.

Section 48:
If a thread breaks off inside the crown which is made of gold, rolled gold, gold plate, or nickle, soak the crown in a solution of water and alum to dissolve the steel thread.

Section 49:
When replacing the crown, make sure the threads fit the stem threads and fits over the pendant.

Godzilla Says...

BURN HOLLYWOOD, BURN!

Here's a video of me removing and replacing a movement from a case.

It's my first video, so cut me some slack, ok 8^)

Check out the Homer Simpson moment at 1 minute 12 seconds; that case back was going on one way, or another!

It's a big file, over 28 megs, so give it some time to load.



You can also download the file from Rapid Share for free, just follow the link:

Uncasing A Movement

Chicago School Of Watchmaking Lesson 1

Master Watchmaking
A Modern, Complete, Practical Course
By Thomas B. Sweazey and Byron G. Sweazey.

The Chicago School of Watchmaking was founded in 1908 by Thomas b. Sweazey.

LESSON 1: FUNDAMENTAL PRACTICES, EQUIPMENT AND CASING

Section 3:
Master every job and all steps and speed will come with experience.

Section 12:
The first watch was made in 1500. In 1587 watchmaking as an industry was introduced in Geneva, Switzerland by Charles Cusin.

In 1635, enameling was invented by Paul Viet, a Frenchman.

The balance was introduced in 1658. While the minute hand came in to use in 1687. In 1700, jewels began to be used to support gear pivots.

The compensating balance was introduced in 1749, while in 1780 the seconds hand was created.

Section 13:
In 1819, Aaron L. Dennison began building watches by machine. His method of measurement was derived from the English measurement of 1 inch and 30th of an inch.

Dennison used 6|30 of an inch for the "fall". The fall was used by English watchmakers, making the pillar plate small enough to fit into the handmade watchcase.

With 1|30 being the measurement, an 18 size watch would measure 1 inch and 6|30 of an inch for the fall and 18|30 of an inch for the watch size; so the total size would then be 1 inch and 24|30 of an inch.

For watches which are 16 size, down to 0 size, (oh size, or naught size) the measurement is 5|30 of an inch for the fall. So a 16s would measure 1 inch plus 5|30 plus 16|30 making the total measurement 1 inch and 21|30 inch.

Dennison decided to move his factory from Boston to Waltham in 1851.

Section 16:
Screws were used on the pillar plate at the four o'clock position, while a pin was placed diagonally across at the 10 o'clock position in order to hold the movement inside the case, but also to make aligning the 12 hour marker directly center of the pendant easier.

Section 17:
Eventually screws were made long enough, that they could be screwed through both the top plate and bottom plate to hold the movement in the case. The problem with half head screws of tempered metal, is that the constant turning of the screws milled away the portion of the watch case, needing a washer to hold the movement in the case. This was remedied by introducing full head screws, which require removing the entire full head screws from the plates before removing the movement from the case.

Section 19:
The hunter case is comprised of several parts: The front and back lids and the cap are all held to the center by hinges, or joints, the bezel is snapped onto the center.

Section 22:
On snap back cases, a small lip, or cut out is present, so that a thin blade, or case knife may be inserted under the lip, or into the cut out to pry open the front and back. When replacing the front and back lids, the lip, or cut out should be slightly right of the crown.

Section 23:
Shaped cases are built with a key or pin in the center which fits onto the key seat. When replacing the back and bezel, it is important to make sure the key seat is directly over the key.

Section 24:
Swing out cases have a dust proof crown, stem and sleeve. Under the crown is a nut that screws down onto the outside of pendant and under this nut is a leather washer. To make adjustments to the sleeve, you must first unscrew the crown from the stem and then unscrew the nut off the pendant.

Section 29:
In older style cases for lever set movements, there is no sleeve. To remove the stem, you must unscrew the screw located on the pendant just enough, to be able to pull out the stem using the crown.

Section 33:
When trying to remove a movement from a case that is stuck, use the right thumb nail to apply pressure on the movement to ease it out of the case onto your waiting hand.

Section 34:
When taking a movement out of the case, or picking up a movement, be sure to use watch paper to avoid leaving prints on the dial, or movement.

Section 36:
When polishing a badly tarnished watchcase using a red cloth, blow some breath onto the case to moisten it to help with the polishing.

Section 38:
To replace the movement in the case, put the movement in by starting the stem in the winding arbor and fitting the movement into place. Then, while holding the dial side with the nail of your first finger on your left hand, turn the case over and place the movement screws in their slots and screw them in.

Section 39:
Place the crown into the winding position and turn it to be sure the movement is perfectly centered. Then screw in the movement screws just tight enough to keep the movement in place.

TEST QUESTIONS

Assignment No. 2: Sections 12-25

Q1. How are sizes of American watches determined?
A1. American watch sizes are determined by using the English 30th of an inch. An 18 size movement would be 1 inch plus 6|30 of an inch for the fall and 18|30 of an inch for the watch size, for a total of 1 and 24|30th of an inch. A 16 size, down to a 0 size would be 1 inch plus 5|30th of an inch for the fall plus 16|30 of an inch for the watch size, for a total of 1 and 21|30th of an inch.

Q2. What is a case screw and what is its purpose?
A2. A case screw is used to hold the movement inside the watchcase.

Q3. Why are full head case screws considered better than half head?
A3. Full head screws are better than half head screws because the screw is made of milled steel and can wear away the case. A full head screw will not.

Q4. What is the crown and what is its purpose?
A4. The crown sits atop the pendant and is used to set the time and wind the mainspring.

Q5. What is a bezel?
A5. The bezel holds the crystal and sits on top of the watchcase center, protecting the dial and hands.

Q6. Why are screw bezels and snap bezels so called?
A6. A screw bezel screws onto threads located on the case center. A snap bezel snaps tightly onto the case center.

Q7. What is a screw back?
A7. A screw back is a watchcase with threads on the center, so the back may be screwed on.

Q8. What is a back back?
A8. A back back is what the watchcase back cover is properly called.

Q9. What is the center?
A9. The center is the middle of the watchcase where the bezel and back attach to.

Assignment No. 3: Sections 26-40

Q1. What tools are required to remove and replace a movement in its case?
A1. The tools required to remove and replace a movement in its case are a screwdriver, tweezers and watch paper.

Q2. What is the right way to hold and use screw drivers?
A2. The right way to hold and use a screw driver is by holding the shank between the thumb and middle finger, with the forefinger on the top twisting the screw driver with the thumb and middle finger. It may also be held with the top in the palm and the thumb, middle and fore finger on the shank twisting the screw driver.

Q3. What is the correct way to hold tweezers?
A3. The correct way to hold tweezers is by resting them on the middle finger and using the thumb and forefinger on the blades. Also, you may hold the blades between the thumb and forefinger, with the butt of the shank in the palm.

Q4. What steps are necessary to remove and replace a movement in the case?
A4a. To remove and replace a movement in the case, first unscrew the front back and back back, or snap them off, if a snap back case. Unscrew the movement screws and remove them from the movement. Pull the crown out to the set position and lift out the movement, holding it between a piece of watch paper.

A4b. To replace the movement, put the movement into the case by starting the stem in the winding arbor. Keep the dial up and make sure the movement is centered by moving the crown to and fro. hold the case between the thumb and middle finger and use the nail of the left forefinger to hold the movement in place. Use the screw driver to set the screws down tight enough to hold the movement.

Q5. Why should you use tissue when handling watch movements?
A5. I should use tissue when handling a watch movement to avoid getting finger prints on the dial, or movement.

Q6. Why should the movement be placed in a tray and covered?
A6. The movement should be placed in a tray and covered to keep dust off the movement, to avoid losing parts and to avoid damage caused by something falling on the movement.

Q7. How should a case be polished?
A7. The watch case should be polished by placing it in a two sided polishing cloth. Open the cloth like a book to expose the red cloth and rub the watchcase until polished. If the case is very tarnished, breath on it to moisten the case to help the polishing.

Progress Check 1A:

Q1: A man who repairs watch movements is commonly called a___.
A1. Commonly called a watchmaker, or a watch repairer.

Q2. Watches are generally classified as___watches and___watches.
A2. Generally classified as screw back watches and snap back watches.
Watches are generally classified as pocket watches and wrist watches.

Q3. The most important thing about a bench for proper work is its___.
A3. The most important thing about a bench is its height.

Q4. A Master Bench has an___to catch anything that might slip off the bench.
A4. A master bench has an apron.

Q5. Additional means to keep small parts from rolling off are___.
A5. Additional means are a groove along the front edge and a guard rail on the sides and back.

Q6. Watch work is best done on a___surface.
A6. Watch work is best done on a smooth surface.
Watch work is best done on a white gloss free surface.

Q7. The tools used___should be stored nearest at hand.
A7. The tools used most commonly should be near at hand.

Q8. To avoid tiring the eyes, the watchmaker should have___.
A8. The watchmaker should have a loupe.
To avoid tiring the eyes, the watchmaker should have good light.

Q9. Watchmaker's benches have a standard height of___inches.
A9. Watchmaker's bench has a standard height of 38 inches.

Q10. A___set is desirable at the bench.
A10. A comfortable seat is desirable at the bench.
A low seat is desirable at the bench.

Progress Check 1B:

Q1. The first watches were made about the year___.
A1. The first watches were made about the year 1500.

Q2. In 18 size watches, the amount allowed for the "fall" is___thirtieths of an inch.
A2. Eighteen size watch have a "fall" of 6|30th of an inch.

Q3. In 16 size and smaller watches, only___thirtieths of an inch is allowed for the fall.
A3. Sixteen size and smaller watches have 5|30th of an inch for the "fall."

Q4. American manufacturers use___to hold the movement in place.
A4. Movement screws are used to hold the movement in place in American watches.
American manufacturers use case case screws to hold the movement in place.

Q5. The best type of case screw has a___head.
A5. Full head case screws are the best.

Q6. A watch which has two lids or backs is said to have a___case.
A6. A hunter case has two lids or backs.

Q7. When the bezel and back can be snapped on, the case is known as a___case.
A7. A snap case has the bezel and back snapped on.

Q8. Some types of cases must be opened with a___.
A8. A watch blade must be used to open some types of cases.
Some types of cases must be opened with a case opener.

Q9. When both bezel and back screw on, the case is known as a___case.
A9. A screw back case has both the bezel and back screwed on.
When both bezel and back screw on, the case is known as a screw bezel and screw back case.

Q10. Where the movement is contained in a hinged inner ring, the case is called a___case.
A10. A swing out case has a hinged inner ring.

Progress Check 1C:

Q1. The first step in taking a movement from its case is usually to remove the___.
A1. When taking movement from the case, first remove the bezel.
the first step in removing a movement from its case is usually to remove the back.

Q2. Next, the stem is ordinarily___to free the movement.
A2. Place the stem into the set position.

Q3. The width of the screw driver blade should be___the width of the screw head.
A3. The screw driver width should be as close as possible to the width of the screw head.

Q4. Watch parts are preferably handled with___.
A4. Handle watch parts with tweezers.

Q5. ___pressure should be applied to tweezers in working with watch parts.
A5. Light pressure should be used with tweezers.

Q6. You can avoid finger prints by using___in handling the movement.
A6. Use tissue paper to avoid finger prints on movements.

Q7. A movement should always be held by the___.
A7. A movement should always be held by the edge.

Q8. A good habit to form is to place small parts in a___.
A8. Place small parts in a parts tray.

Q9. Cleaning a watch should also include cleaning the___.
A9. When cleaning the watch, also clean the case.

Q10. it is important to___the movement before tightening the case screws.
A10. Center the movement before tightening the case screws.

Chicago School Of Watchmaking

This is my first entry about my education in watch repairing and watchmaking. This won't be a weekly posting, like the other sections; I will post daily updates of what I have learned, the exercises and practical work in the course and answers to the test questions throughout each chapter.

As far as I know, the course has become public domain, so I do not believe I will be breaking any copyright laws. However, I will not be posting the course in it's entirety, or posting scans of the course pages. Only what I have learned that day.

I will also be including pictures and hopefully video posts of the hands-on work. I hope that this feature will be a record that students will be able to follow and learn from. As I learn, so will you. And more importantly, my mistakes will be on display as well.

I don't believe in "learning" from my mistakes. When you learn from a mistake, all you're doing is leaning how to make the same mistake over again, but more efficiently. When I make a mistake, I move on and do a thing again. I know that sounds like the same thing, but it's not in that, I do not analyze mistakes, I analyze success. Do a thing wrong; move on. Do a thing right, examine it and remember the actions, or steps that arrived at the correct result and then move on.

If you would like to follow along, or get a copy of the course for your own study, you can check out a copy from the NAWCC Library, (members only,) buy a copy from Larry Foord, or possibly find a copy either on disk, or hard copy on Ebay.

http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=%22chicago+school+of+watchmaking%22&btnG=Google+Search&meta=

I'll be flying along pretty fast over the next few days, simply because I've already studied the first three chapters of the course. Starting next week, I will begin the daily postings.

Basel Favorites and Unfortunates (Ouch!)

Using Timezone as a launching pad for my critiques, I'm happy to present what I plan to have on my wrist, what I would love to have on my wrist and what I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole.

First off, from Jaeger-LeCoultre, a lovely and brilliant new chrono named the Duometre a Chronographe:

Featuring a hand decorated and built mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380 movement, this chrono displays a power reserve for the time function, as well as for the chronograph function, both displaying the power in each of the two barrels. Also, the chronograph function features a minute-unit indicator, so you don't have to guess whether the chrono reads 32 minutes, or 33 minutes; it's in there!

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2702490&rid=0

Next up, one that's going on the wish list, the Glashutte original "Sixties". A lovely self-winding model using the wonderful GO 39 movement, cased inside steel and precious metal cases and featuring a no-nonsense dial, with alternating Arabic and index hour markers, a domed sapphire crystal, (I'm not too hot for this feature, but I don't hate it either) and an extra-plat case.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2590469&rid=0

From Vianny Halter is a tower clock for your wrist. Designed and crafted in 1788 by Antide Janvier, that clock and this particular watch presents the solar time and lunar cycle in a housing that won't crush you like your name was Wicked Witch of the East. Oh! What a world, what a world! The clock may be sitting in the Musée du Temps in Besançon, but this watch can be sitting on your wrist courtesy of Manufacture Janvier (well...not "courtesy", you have to pay for it.)

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2631413&rid=0

From F.P. Journe, comes the Octa Moonphase and Power Reserve. That pretty much sums it all up, natch. Hey, it's from Journe, what else you need to know? What? You writin' a book? Fine. The movement is the Octa 1300-3, with a 120 hour power reserve (woof!) and a new rotor that winds in one direction. Using a ball bearing system, ceramic balls allow the rotor to move in one direction and block it in the other. Apparently, when the wearer is sitting on his lazy...er, chair, the rotor moves back to it's original position and apparently, "...every infinitesimal movement is maximally exploited for an optimized winding of the watch." Now don't you feel useless? Your watch works harder than you do, you slob.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2641814&rid=0

From another independent maker, the Sea-Gull Tourbillon. Made by a Chinese maker, the case is rose gold, with a hand wind tourbillon movement displaying the time, sub seconds via a dagger on the tourb cage, power reserve, moon phase, date and 24 hour indication. Wow! Even the Asian watches work harder than us shiftless North Americans! Lazy Timex.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2605934&rid=0

Now, Rolex. I won't go into too much detail, except to say that much like Cadillac, Rolex hasn't made a good-looking product since 1996. However, the new Air-Kings with COSC and heavier cases look sharp. I'll let James Dowling tell you about the Yacht-Master II.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2682742&rid=0

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2687498&rid=0

From the Omega Museum Collection, we have a rebuild of the famous 1932 divers watch. This case-in-a-case watch was conceived as an elegant designer watch, that was robust enough to withstand the harsh reality of moisture. It flopped. Oh, it worked perfectly, but no one wanted it. Which had the JLC Reverso talking trash about it at all the cool parties. Snap! However, aside from being a snappy little number, it has been updated with modern materials and can be yours. The inner case of rose gold, slides inside the outer case of white gold, living in moisture free sin upon the wearer's wrist. The only unfortunate issue is, Omega decided to enlarge the watch to 33.05 mm wide by 50.50 mm long. I guess size does matter.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2683044&rid=0

Also from Omega, yet another limited series Speedmaster Pro, this time limited to 57 pieces in precious metal and featuring a hand wind Co-Axial movement. A steel version will also be available in 1957 pieces in a handsome wood box, with ugly dial doodads. But it's still going on my wish list. Ugly watches need love too.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2683000&rid=0

And now, the one I'll be shopping for, the Longines Legend Diver. It's a re-issue of a 1960 diving watch and damned pretty. With a self-winding Longines caliber L633--ETA 2824-2--25 jewels, a 28,800 beat, a power reserve of 38 hours all inside a 42mm steel case. Although about 4mm bigger than I like my watch to be, (I'm not a size queen,) it's beauty outweighs it's size.

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2687037&rid=0

And lastly, from the bottom of whatever barrel would have them, Paris Hilton has made a punitive foray into watch design. "Paris Hilton timepieces are creative designs with sensual cases and colorful straps." In other words, tarted up timepieces. Much like their "designer", they'll be cheap and easily had for $85-$200 by anyone with more cash than taste. Hey, I'll cut the
lady some slack. She hasn't done anything that all of us haven't done too. The only diff is we don't have video evidence of our debauchery. Most of us don't. Ok, I do. But I didn't know cameras could tape in the dark. Night vision, what the hell is that? What is this, "Mission Impossible"? Mission impossible getting that damn tape back. No copies? Yeah, right. I won't fall for that one a third time.


http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=2658757&rid=0

There's Doins'a'Transpirin'

I thought I'd elucidate on what my intentions are with this here blog. Each week I hope to present a set of features and a set content. My hope is that the What Does Your Watch Say? blog will become a comfortable, familiar place for all of us. Like a McDonald's--no good for ya, but ya know what you're gettin' 8^)

Each week, or semi-weekly, I plan to present several topics:

Grande Complication

As we all know, a complication is any function other than the indication of hours, minutes and seconds, no matter if the mechanism is hand-wound or self-winding and irregardless of movement height. However, we also know that many in the watch field can be quite complicated themselves.

So, each week I hope to present an interview with an individual from the watch biz, so that both you the reader and I can get to know these people better and hopefully learn something new about ourselves as well.

I hope that they will impart not only their experience and knowledge, but their advice and history, which may be kept as a record for future watch repairers and makers.

Sécurité de la sonnerie

The "all-or-nothing" piece is a system that prevents an insufficiently wound striking mechanism from striking too few hours. For many watchmakers, entering this field was an all, or nothing endeavor. They will build their own watches completely, no other options will be considered.

I hope to occasionally discuss these individuals, their work, their designs and hopefully, their own words, so that we may all benefit from their courage, ingenuity and drive.

Autonomie

Autonomy is the duration which a timepiece can function between windings. This blog has a small autonomy. It can not go for long without input from you, the reader. Invariably, I will present an email, or comment from a reader that I feel presented a salient point, idea, or suggestion to help improve this blog and make it more enjoyable for all of us.

Seconde Morte

Anyone familiar with Breguet, will be familiar with the idea of a "dead second" or , "seconde d’un coup", where the second hand jumps forward after each elapsed second has passed.

This section will be reserved for those watches that catch my fancy, pique my curiosity, or are so breathtakingly beautiful, time seems to stop for an instant while we admire them.

Watches will come from my own collection and from the collections of this blog's readers. I look forward to this being one of the more eclectic portions of the What Does your Watch Say?, which will match the eclectic tastes of myself and my readers.

Cabinotier

Each week I will present a photo of a watch and invite you the readers to rebuild, remake and redesign that watch in any way you see fit. Each week one entry will be selected by a panel of one and the winner will receive the satisfaction of a job well done and my undying respect. (Paul Raposo's undying respect void where prohibited.)

Butterface Of The Week

Each week I'll present and review a watch that, for all it's outside and internal beauty, the dial configuration leaves something to be desired. Although not meant as a slight towards the maker, designer, or manufacturer, it will be a light hearted look at watches with faces only a collector could love.

Cuvette

Usually a second cover inside a hunter case, which protects the movement from dust and damage. But every so often, I will open les cuvettes of a particular book and review it for my readers. These books will be about repair, biographies, watch magazines and even catalogs and advertisements. Since collecting watch paper has been a hobby of mine for a couple of decades, this is something I look forward to sharing with you periodically.

***

Along with these specialty posts, I will provide a daily, or semi-daily post regarding my studies of the Chicago School of Watchmaking corrspondence course. As well, I will discuss my attempts with the repairing of movements and discuss what I have learned that day.

I hope that as I learn and grow as a watch repairer/maker, that you will not only share your own knowledge, but learn along with me. The only way we can learn to walk, is to first learn how to fall. All my mistakes, success, discoveries and epiphanies will be presented here for all of us to share and learn from.

The comments section is now open and will not be moderated. However, I will remove vulgar, bigoted, homophobic, sexist, or down right stupid comments. And not only will the commentator be banned, but I will drop a house on them. And not a small house either; a McMansion! So let's leave it cleaner than we found it and play safe.

And always remember:

Welcome to What Does Your Watch Say?

Moe: What does your watch say?
Shemp: It don't say nothing; you've got to look at it.

And thus is born the What Does Your Watch Say? blog. We, or rather I, will use this blog to present watch related topics; discussions of wrist and pocket watches; independent watchmakers; book reviews, whether about repair, history, biography, catalogs, or magazines; my progress in the repair of movements; interviews with those in watch related fields; and a running cliff notes on the Chicago School of Watchmaking correspondence course and eventually, the British Horological Institutes' Distance Learning Program.

Watches reviewed will be watches from my own collection; collections belonging to friends and foes alike, (the watch of my enemy is my watch ¬_¬) unusual watches; independent makers and watches I have--or will--lust after.

I will write about and, (hopefully,) interview those independent watchmakers who carry on the craft of hand making individual watches. Reviews and photos of the work of people like George Daniels, F. P. Journe and lesser known, but renowned and respected makers like Christian Klings. And not to be left out, all those, such as myself, who are working towards becoming a part of a great heritage of future master builders, will be included and are welcomed.

Book reviews will feature repair titles such as, The Watch Repairers manual by Fried; historical books such as, Watch and Clock Makers Handbook Dictionary and Guide by Britton; biographies such as, All In Good Time by Daniels; catalogs, historical and new from my collection; and reviews of any number of the magazines currently available from the past and present.

I will present an online diary as I learn to assess malfunctions, repair movements, replace and eventually make from scratch, new parts and time watch movements; as well fixing the usual maladies that befall watch glasses and cases.

Interviews will feature those in the watch biz that I've come to know over the years, whether in person, or online. Sales people; store owners; repair persons, collectors and hobbyists will all suffer the lash of my harsh line of in-depth questioning and Hearstian critiques!

http://www.bhi.co.uk/corresp.htm

And lastly, the main feature nee function of this blog will be to follow my study of the Chicago School of Watchmaking correspondence course. As well as my eventual enrollment in the BHI distance learning course. As I learn, you will read--enraptured no doubt--of my progress, quandaries and success. All aided by an intense desire to learn and advice from those experienced souls who provide advice and hints to those just beginning, through their own kindness and compassion.

I look forward to input from readers through comments and emails. Your ideas and suggestions will help to build a blog that will not only hopefully entertain, but enrich our collective knowledge and become a storehouse of information for those seeking either advice, or amusement.

All in all, I hope this blog will provide useful information, interesting takes on the world of watches and a helpful guide for those who seek to either increase their knowledge, or pursue an honourable career centuries old.

And now a word from our Shemp--

Samuel "Shemp" Horwitz
March 17 , 1895 - November 23, 1955

Moe: Hey! Shemp passed out; get him some water!
Shemp: No, champagne...